Rita’s Monthly Gardening Tips

August 2014
How to Manage Pest Problems

Rita's Monthly Gardening Tips,  August 4, 2014

Do you have a pest problem? Let’s examine the words “pest problem” more closely to figure out a solution. A pest is defined as living organisms that occur where they are not wanted or that cause damage to crops or humans or other animals. Examples include:

  • insects
  • mice, gophers, deer, etc.
  • unwanted plants (weeds)
  • fungi
  • microorganisms such as bacteria and viruses

Although the definition of pest is clear, the definition of “problem” would be completely up to each individual person. Massive amounts of toxic chemicals are pumped into the environment every year so we can enjoy perfect blemish-free produce and live a completely insect-free life. Increasing our tolerance for insects and learning more about the life cycles, food chains, and balances in nature will enable us to find a way to solve our pest problems without doing additional harm to the environment.

Often our first line of defense in dealing with a pest problem is to arm ourselves with pesticides. Pesticides should be used only after all possible methods of control have been tried and are not working.

A pesticide is any substance or mixture of substances (chemical or organic) intended for:

  • preventing,
  • destroying,
  • repelling, or
  • mitigating any pest.

Although often misunderstood to refer only to insecticides, the term pesticide also applies to herbicides, fungicides, and various other substances used to control pests. Please note that sprays or substances even completely natural and organic are still designed to kill or otherwise adversely affect living organisms, so they are therefore still pesticides. Many sprays will harm the pests and similar non-pests. For example, Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) is a natural pesticide that will kill pests within the Lepidoptera order such as the much-hated Tomato Hornworm, Cabbage Looper, and Corn Ear worm. But also within this same Lepidoptera order are the beloved and very beneficial Swallowtail, Monarch, Painted Lady and other butterflies. BT kills caterpillars good or bad.

It’s important to see pests as a part of nature and very often a food source for non-pest insects or animals. Our goal is to manage the populations of pests and nonpests rather than to eliminate pests solely. Follow the steps below for safe and healthful pest management:

  1. Garden Practices. Build healthy soil, which will create healthier plants that are more able to withstand some insect damage. Don’t over fertilize or over water, and plant the right plants in the right place.
  2. Biological. Encourage natural predators such as beneficial insects, birds, and bats that eat pests. Plant flowers and/or build boxes that will create habitat (food and shelter) for natural predators.
  3. Identify. Be absolutely certain what the problem insect is. This is a big one. It is very easy to see guilt by association. We may see rolly pollies by our lettuce and assume they are the culprits when actually it is nighttime marauding slugs doing the damage.
  4. Physical. Pick, smash, or trap pests. Hose off visible pests with a strong stream of water.
  5. Pesticides. As a last resort only. Start with the least toxic pesticides that are specific to the positively identified pest.

Active ingredients approved by the EPA in minimum-risk pesticides:

Castor oil (U.S.P. or equivalent)

Linseed oil

Cedar oil

Malic acid

Cinnamon and cinnamon oil

Mint and mint oil

Citric acid

Peppermint and peppermint oil

Citronella and Citronella oil

2-Phenethyl propionate (2-phenylethyl propionate)

Cloves and clove oil

Potassium sorbate*

Corn gluten meal

Putrescent whole egg solids

Corn oil

Rosemary and rosemary oil

Cottonseed oil

Sesame (includes ground sesame plant) and sesame oil*

Dried blood

Sodium chloride (common salt)

Eugenol

Sodium lauryl sulfate

Garlic and garlic oil

Soybean oil

Geraniol

Thyme and thyme oil

Geranium oil

White pepper

Lauryl sulfate

Zinc metal strips (consisting solely of zinc metal and impurities)

Lemongrass oil

Keep it natural and keep on gardening. See you next month.

July 2014 –
Give a Third, Get a Third

Rita's Monthly Gardening Tips,  July 8, 2014

It is a commonly known fact that you can thank a pollinator for one out of three bites of food you eat. We understand that we need pollinators. We hope for them to create our wonderful bounty of edible crops. We wait for them. We worry about if and when they will come. The service that pollinators provide is part of a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship with plants. The bee ensures plant species’ survival by moving around the male pollen to the female flower. In exchange, the bee receives nectar and/or pollen to ensure its own survival. The pollinator doesn’t know that it is helping the plant, and the plant doesn’t know that it is helping the pollinator. Each species is oblivious to the other and is concerned only about its own needs.

In this respect, maybe it comes naturally to humans to be focused on our own needs and oblivious to the needs of the rest of nature. But we do so at our own peril. Because one-third of our food crops are dependent on pollinators, it is the least we can do to give them one-third of our growing space for their food and shelter.

For example, if your garden is 100 square feet in size, plants rich in pollen and nectar should cover at least 33 square feet. If your garden is 1,000 square feet. pollinator plants should cover 330 square feet. If the total of your front and back yards is 5,000 square feet, then a minimum of 1,650 square feet should be planted with pollinator plants.

The honey bee is the poster child for pollinators, but there are many other pollinators. There are 4,000 species of native bees in North America alone. Visit http://irishpaving.ie. Other pollinators of flowering plants include butterflies, beetles, flies, moths, and other insects. By extension, many other insects provide pest control for our food crops, helping them to grow to maturity without being decimated by pests or the need for pesticides. We need to give back to all these garden allies. Below are lists of easy- to-grow plants in different categories that will create a mutually beneficial relationship among the flowers, the pollinators, and YOU! Remember, give a third, get a third.

10 California Natives:

Achillea-Yarrow

Asclepias-Milkweed

Ceanothus-California Lilac

Eriogonum-Buckwheat

Eschscholzia-California Poppy

Lupinus-Lupine

Monardella-Coyote Mint

Penstemon

Ribes-Currant

Salvia-Sage

10 Herbs:

Catnip

Cilantro

Dill

Lavender

Lemon Balm

Marjoram

Mint

Oregano

Rosemary

Thyme

10 Perennial Flowers:

Agastache

Buddleja

Coreopsis

Echinacea

Gaillardia

Rudbeckia

Perovskia-Russian Sage

Scabiosa-Pincushion Flower

Verbena

Veronica

10 Annual Flowers:

Borage

Calendula

Centaurea

Cerinthe

Cosmos

Helianthus-Sunflower

Lobularia-Sweet Alyssum

Marigold-Signet

Nigella-Love in a Mist

Tithonia-Mexican Sunflower